How to describe the Gucci Spring 2025 collection?
In contrast to the ‘wow’ factor that fashion aficionados anticipate, it is evident that Gucci, under the guidance of Sabato De Sarno, is pursuing a strategy that prioritises the everyday and the pragmatic, with a focus on the clothes themselves. Since De Sarno's debut, the goal of creating a 'stalker' brand has been reiterated and emphasised in a logical chain of design that is obvious to the naked eye.
The transition has always presented a challenge, but De Sarno has met it head-on. Perhaps this is why his approach to design and business is reminiscent of a certain type of old-school restaurant that has been around since the last century, with a simple, straightforward menu that is occasionally updated. In contrast to the industry's reliance on gimmicks to attract customers, the traditional chef exemplifies a different kind of "entertainment spirit." One clear advantage is the confidence in their own cuisine.
On 13 May, Gucci unveiled its Spring 2025 collection at London's Tate Modern. Gucci is located on the south bank of the River Thames, just 1.8 miles from the legendary The Savoy Hotel and past Sutherland, Black Friar and Waterloo Bridges. Guccio Gucci came to London in 1899 at the age of 17, determined to break free from his family's declining business of making hats in Italy. He was employed as a baggage handler at the Savoy Hotel, and subsequently, Gucci was established.
Building a new image by retracing the path of the brand's founder is a predictable strategy. Indeed, this approach is widely regarded as a highly commendable strategy by the majority of young successors. However, the rationale behind the choice of Tate Modern across the river is unclear. As a prominent cultural and artistic destination that has gained international recognition since the turn of the millennium, Tate Modern has long been a significant contributor to London's global image. This edgy, diverse, rebellious and industrial building represents two fundamentally opposing cultures and ideologies to the luxury hotels of the late 19th century, which were renowned internationally and hosted numerous celebrities and politicians.
This contrast is also reflected in the exterior and interior architecture of the two buildings. The Tate Modern, which was originally a power station, has retained its concrete factory and iconic chimneys. However, in recent years, it has added a steep, spectacular, surreal, and geometric glass tower, which allows for innovative performers from around the globe to perform and mingle with visitors in a post-modernist utopia. In contrast, the Savoy perpetuates the hedonistic optimism of the white upper class. It is arguably closer to what is seen as the original and classic image of the brand, and the golden years of Gucci.
De Sarno asserts the merits of reviving the brand's legacy in London at this juncture, noting that the Tate Modern serves as a compelling narrative of the brand's history.
De Sarno believes that the Tate Modern is an ideal venue for telling the story of the city. The Turbine Hall is a welcoming and inclusive space, while the Tanks serve as a source of inspiration. Mr. De Sarno then concluded.
Fashion design is a method of research, exploration and interpretation, according to the official press release. It is a method of expressing my interpretations of desire and sensuality, and then showcasing a different side of my work, which is more romantic and ambivalent. I believe it is important to challenge the status quo and push the boundaries of what is known. This allows us to explore new possibilities without compromising the integrity of the original concept. To take it in the opposite direction and thus achieve harmony. The concept he articulates is similar to a topological Ursus band model, which breaks the established rules of travelling. It allows the three sides of the brand's history, the spirit of the city of London, and the designer's individual experience as a human being to be articulated in a new way, thus weaving a new story.